Freiburg. Hiking the Depths of the Black Forest
Today, January 25th, I set out on my first hike of the new year. It was incredible and rejuvenating, and took place in the deep dark depths of Germany’s Schwarzwald, also known as the Black Forest.
Hearing the name Black Forest is likely to conjure up a chilly sense of mystery, and rightly so. The Black Forest, with it’s dense dark piney depths, luminous shadows and shady valleys, sets the eerie scene for many fairy tales told by the Brothers Grimm. These tales are thought by some to be lighter versions based on sometimes dark and gruesome historical events. Indeed, Little Red Riding Hood trotted over the pine needle carpeting of the Black Forest, swinging her basket, kicking pebbles and snapping twigs under foot on her way to Grandmother’s house… once upon a time. Another popular Black Forest fairy tale included friendly dwarfs (Snow White), which are still said by some to live hidden in the forest. The most creepy Black forest Fairy tale, to me, was Hansel and Gretel. An old witch living deep in the forest, waiting for little lost children to be lured to her house made of candy, while preparing her oven to cook them and eat them? Creepy.
Making my way north from Geneva, I decided to stop over in Freiburg, located a short distance over the border in Germany’s southwestern most province Baden Wurttemberg. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision because, going to plan, I had no plans. I couldn’t have not-planned it more perfectly because, although I knew Freiburg sits on its edge, I had no clue that it essentially forms the Pearly Gates to the infamous Schwarzwald (Black Forest).
Not only that, but the hostel I chose, appropriately named Black Forest Hostel, is conveniently situated such so that I walk out the door, turn right, trot up some stairs, and am instantly on a trail leading through some hillside vineyards and into the depths of the woods. The Black Forest is a hiker’s heaven, with an expansive network of well-marked trails stretching over 93 miles. It took me a couple days to figure all this out, but considering that I’m nursing a concussion, I took it easy on myself.
And so, today I set out into the woods. Into the dark depths of the infamous Black Forest. The forest is still laden with superstitions of lurking werewolves and witches and friendly dwarves… none of whom I encountered on my seven-plus mile hike. I did, however, encounter incredible views at just about every turn, look out towers, and even crumbles of castle remains.
Even for those not so keen on hiking, climbing to the nearby hilltop perch of Schossberg is one of the most rewarding things to do in Freiberg. The views of Freiberg’s beautiful old town (Altstadt) are spectacular, with views of hundreds-of-years-old buildings snuggly nestled together, red rooftops and smoking chimneys and the towering cathedral tower peaking above the rest. And, at sunset, an intensely romantic glowing red sun sinks behind the surrounding hills.
Tags: black forest, brothers grimm, freiburg, germany, hiking, schwarzwald, sunset
Ok, get going on that travel brochure. I’m sure the governments of the countries you visit appreciate the free press.
I’m interested in staying at the same hostel to do a bit of hiking myself, but I’ve never visited the area before, so know very little about how this goes. I understand the trails through the forest are very extensive – is it at all possible to walk as far in as you want and then turn around and walk back to the hostel, or do you continue on a loop?
Hi Ali. I’m excited about your adventure! You can make the hiking experience through the Black forest anything you’d like. You can backpack it and stop at different villages along the way, or you can do like I did and station yourself in Freiburg and do out and backs. In fact, all throughout Germany, there are extensive trail systems. You could spend hours or months hiking. Germans love to be outside on trails. I find German trails to be very well maintained. Some forest areas have cabins or huts maintained by clubs which provide warmth, rest, drinks and give you destinations to hike to. If you stop in at the right time you might even be serenaded by elders singing traditional mountain songs!